Monday, 28 July 2008

Slow the Clock at Praga

I was hoping for fantastic weather in Prague, ‘cause frankly there has been no summer in London this year.

One of the best things about Eastern Europe is the lower standard of living, which means we can indulge in classier accommodation without wincing. Radisson SAS was a great choice as it was on a side street of the central Wenceslas Square.

There was thin layer of clouds thickening in the afternoon, quite breezy. Our first stop was the landmark Charles’ Bridge. While the architecture and sculptures were works of art, I was more drawn to the artists painting (selling) their interpretation of the city on along the bridge.

The sun finally shone through as we reached the Prague Castle.  St. Vitus Cathedral was indifferent to most European major cathedrals. Don’t get me wrong, I know I don’t seem to show my appreciation to the architectural work of many cathedrals in the major cities, but when compared to St Peters or even to Sagrada Familia, these cathedrals are beautiful, just not breath-taking, overpowering or moving. Admittedly, they do seem a little repetitive when there is at least one in every city, no?

The view from the castle overlooks the entire city; a sea of red roof tops.

It was time to  explore the hotel's neighbourhood.

After a brief rest in the hotel we began our search for this little restaurant that was supposed to be great for authentic Bohemia cuisine. Boy was it a long search. We repeatedly mowed the same street and turned every sideways to look for the name Upinkasu. Nothing. Half an hour later, with despair, we went into the dead-end of an uphill alley, and there it was, its name hidden among indecipherable Slovak.

Thank god they had an English menu, but you only get it if you can catch the attention of a server. We were ignored for almost 20 minutes after we secured an outdoor table. We ordered their special sausage cooked in beer, beef straganoff and pork knuckles.

The sauces in straganoff and the sausage dish were not dissimilar, heavily seasoned and ultra thick gravy? The honestly couldn’t taste the sausages as they were drowned in the salty pool, and by the time the food arrived, it was nightfall so I couldn’t make out what was in the dish. The other two dishes were unremarkable, they were exactly what it said on the menu.

The next day was bright but still cloudy. We wandered around the old town area and caught the Astronomical clock’s puppet parade, followed by the souvenir shops that filled every space in the cobbled streets.

It started raining. Dammit. Did I bring London with me?

We chose a bar/restaurant that served modern European food hidden in Wenceslas Square for dinner. Since the Bohemia cuisine didn’t tick my tastebuds, I went for gnocchi creamed with pine nuts and lime; James opted for a safer ham hock. Despite the horrifying presentation (some suggested it looked like a plate of mice embryos – lovely friends), the gnocchi was good, the lime lifted the heaviness of the dish and pine nuts gave the gnocchi a good crunch. It did become quite boring half way through though. James’s safe choice was even better, however, tender pieces of ham hock perfectly seasoned.

There was a very popular cake shop next to the restaurant, with mainly locals queuing outside the shop while servers frantically take orders from fast-speaking customers. Forgive us for the boring choices of Tiramisu and banoffee, but we were under the impression we could always go back for more adventurous varieties if the basics were good. But they weren’t. Tiramisu was on the dry side with only a very slight hint of liqueur, more layering would have eased the dense cream, yes cream, it wasn’t mascarpone. The banoffee was oly mildly better, with very artificial banana flavours. So dessert doesn’t seem to be a Bohemian strong point.

The next morning we hit the market with handcrafts and local produce, which was only a corner away from the Wenceslas Square. The handmade witches and puppets weren’t perfect, but had their own characteristics, so we bought one each.

The stroll in the Wallestein Garden and the Dripping Wall were pleasant, with peacocks freely wandering alongside. I like easy holidays, with plenty of time to dawdle along the river. The modern art museum was a surprise find.

And it started pouring down again.

Dinner at Celnice was back in the New Town. It looked decent enough so if I were to try the representative Bohemian goulash, this would be the chance. James opted for a beef knuckle, I think he got the entire cow, the dish was massive. Unfortunately it was also quite dry and chewy. Goulash was… not my type of food. I can’t say it wasn’t good, the dough was fluffy, meat was tender, but I simply believe it is not my cup of tea.

At night, Charles Bridge has a deadly air of mysteriousness around it.

On our last day, we already know the city centre back to front, so we ventured further to the Vysehrad castle, seeing the sun was blazing. Frankly there wasn’t much to see, we just enjoyed the sunshine. We had more fun by the river feeding ducks and swans for the good half of the afternoon before catching our flight home.

Prague is a well-preserved historical beauty; the atmosphere was almost unspoilt by the heavy flow of tourists. In terms of sight-seeing, none of the sights were disappointing, but I enjoyed the laid back tempo above all.

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