Monday, 14 June 2010

Galvin Bistrot de Luxe - Deluxe Bistro

The Galvin series were never on my list. I have heard raving reviews and their Michelin successes, but there doesn’t seem to be a distinctive selling point that lures me into their establishments. Luckily, mister saw what I didn’t and booked a table for a weekend lunch.

Nostalgic French I thought. High ceiling with black fans and spherical lights, dark wooden walls with black & white photographs were simply tasteful. We were offered both the a la carte and prie fixe lunch menu, which was of excellent value at £19.50 for 3 courses. We were more drawn to the a la carte on the day, skipped starters to save space for dessert.

Pig’s Head Ravioli with Asparagus, Broad beans
A bold choice. The open ravioli was packed with loose chunks of soft juicy pork. I am no expert on pig’s head, but I guess there was some collagen, which after slow cooking becomes the transparent lumps attached to the meat. Its appearance and texture resembled animal fat, only denser and slightly chewier. I thoroughly enjoyed the dish.

Chargrill Veal Liver with luncheon sausage, Baby Gem lettuce
Mister went for offals, a nice change. The liver was lightly crisp on the surface, and squashy in the middle. It was bizarrely nice. One word for the mash on the side – buttery (and fluffily delicious).

Crème Brulee
(Let’s not talk about it. It wasn’t memorable.)

Valhrona Chocolate delice, milk ice-cream
This, on the other hand, was great. The chocolate delice was rich and more bitter less sweet, so worked well with the milk ice cream.

The half bottle of Fleurie, Beaujolais was almost all me. Should have chosen something stronger with the dishes, but still good. I take back what I said about Galvin’s selling point. I should have appreciated the lack of gimmick and its concentration on producing delightful food.

66 Baker Street
London
W1U 7DJ
Tel: 0207 935 4007
Galvin Bistrot de Luxe on Urbanspoon

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