Thursday, 26 January 2012

Gauthier Revisited. Twice.


After our first encounter, Gauthier and I kind of clicked, but there were probably still rough edges. So I went back to get totally convinced. Keeping it short and sweet this time round...

Autumn White Alba Truffle Risotto
I thought this was slightly OTT with a £20 supplement. Could I taste the difference? You bet. White truffle feels more subtle but structured. It doesn’t overwhelm with fat punches of aroma, instead the fragrance infiltrates and lingers and invigorates the palate; the longer it stays, the better it tastes.

Black Truffle Risotto
Peasants’ version - just playing.
This lacks the drama of the live truffle shaving, then again it’s £20 wallet-friendlier.

Scallops parsley & griolles
So fat - just such fat scallops, like the jumbo Hokkaido scallops. The usual masterly execution with the charred crispy edge and silken, creamy centre, cannot fault this dish.

Pheasant & Chestnut Cream sautéed Lettuce, Wild Mushroom & herb Gioza
Possibly my least favourite course here; visually unappetising, barely any hint of chestnut, more like mushy peas, and masked all the possible flavours of the pheasant.

Bembridge Lobster & Quail Egg
This felt like a posh prawn cocktail. I think the downfall was the lettuce, too drab and too common. The cold lobster meat (albeit chunky and sweet), lukewarm lettuce, out-of-place quail egg and flimsy dressing…nothing really came together.

Highland Venison & Williams Pear celeriac & Black Truffle, Caramelised
And Yes! This was spot on. Unquestionable.

Red Mullet & Capers purple Artichoke, confit Tomatoes & Taggiashe Olives, Purple Basil & Prawn Jus
I don’t’ remember now, so it wasn’t all that memorable, which could go either way.

Pigeon
Another star dish for me, potent, rich and fierce. In fact this dish has prompted me to choose game birds whenever I see them on the menu; the raw elegance is addictive.

Lamb

Golden Louis XV
The posh KitKat? I’d like to know where to get it from. Is it good? Undoubtedly. Is worth an extra £10 as a dessert course? No. Not sure if this is served as a lunch dessert option, if so, get in.


Am I totally convinced? Hmmm, maybe not 100%... but that’s beyond the point now. Gauthier Soho has grown on me, the cosiness, the Maître’d, the truffle risotto, the menu etc. I get excited recommending this place to friends. Yea alright there are bad habits, like most fish recipes sound better than they taste, but I’m okay with that, just tell them.

21 Romilly Street
London
W1D 5AF
Tel: 0207 494 3111

Gauthier Soho on Urbanspoon
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2 comments:

  1. I think I see a pattern here, you love pigeon, phesant & venison, all the gamey meats hehe.

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