Sunday, 20 November 2016

Poland - Warsaw & Krakow

We arrived at Warsaw at 5:30am by the overnight bus from Vilnius, bang in the centre of town before the city wakes for the day. I think we were both very surprised by how Metropolitan the Polish capital turned out to be. Mind you, I had spent 3 weeks in small towns and villages, so the city buzz took a bit of time getting used to.

He looked up a list of cool-eats in Warsaw, including a few trendy breakfast spots. However most don’t open at 6am. So we began wandering around the sleepy city, made our way towards the general direction of our accommodation / breakfast café via Old Town. IT took us just under 3 hours, going through random parks and neighbourhoods, but we got there. Café SAM came recommended for their fresh bread and bagel. We had their traditional Polish breakfast set and Egg & Bacon Bagel with fresh orange juice. 

The bagel was out of this world; so much so that he declared he could have this everyday – toasted bagel smeared with a thick coat of cream cheese, layered with fresh salad leaves, juicy tomato, small pile of smoky bacon and topped with a fried egg with a crispy edge; the runny custardy egg yolk trickled onto the bacon, the bread mopping up all the savoury goodness… damn it was a good bagel. The traditional breakfast set was comparatively less exciting with a Viennese egg, cottage cheese, ham, cheese and pickles, served with homemade sourdough bread. Still very enjoyable and very substantial.

Our room wasn’t ready, so we dropped off our backpacks and made our way to the Warsaw Uprising Museum by tram. The tram system was somewhat flawed; ticket machines were only found on some trams and the occasional stops, and were we lucky enough to hop on a tram with a machine, they only took coins… so while we had every intention to pay, circumstances were a limiting factor. We only had enough change for 1 ticket, lucky it was only a short ride.


There were a confusing number of uprising events in Warsaw, the Warsaw Uprising Museum focuses on the 63 days that Polish Resistance army fought against the Nazi with very little weapon while the Soviet Army watched on the sidelines. The setup was quite interesting with information displayed in different ways, but the flow of the exhibition was quite disorganised. Perhaps we were tired, the presentation was starting to blend.

Milk Bars are local eateries that serve cheap Polish meals, not dissimilar to a canteen. Many restaurants were closed down post-war by the communist authorities, but these simple milk bars subsidised by the state remained to serve dairy-based meals to poorer working class. Nowadays they are just self-service eateries offering traditional Polish dishes at low prices. We picked Bar Prasowy because it’s relatively central and more importantly they have an English menu.

We placed our orders at the cashier, took our receipt to the kitchen counter and the staff began loading our tray with food with utmost efficiency. We wanted to try some pierogi but they ran out, so we had pork hock with pickled cucumber soup instead, finished with strawberry and cream pancakes. The hulk of pork knuckle wasn’t bad, plenty of meat and reasonably tender, perhaps a little bland and it could do with some gravy. The soup was an acquired taste, sour and salty, but it was the pancakes that had our eyebrows wiggling. The thin crepes were overstuffed with half a can of whipped cream, then drowned in a crazily sweet strawberry couli that was probably made from a jar of jam. It’s standard canteen food but we’re glad we’ve ticked the milk bar box.

Then it was time for a nap back in the apartment before our dinner reservation at Atelier Amaro - the first Michelin star restaurant in Poland. See full review here Atelier Amaro. We took a little detour to Chopin Monument too.

The following day we started with a couple of breakfast bagels at Bułkę przez Bibułkę. the egg and bacon bagel was good but not as epic as the one at SAM, and the Hummburak bagel with hummus, beets and eggs didn’t go down well with him.

We joined the free walking tour the the Old Town, where our guide explained how the entire city was more or less demolished during the war and tried brainwashing us to believing Warsaw is a better city than Krakow. That’s the thing, we had to go with what he said. It was overall quite a good tour, we got some good background on the uprising events and treatment of the Jewish in the ghettos.

We finished the tour at the Uprising Monument.

Although we knew most restaurants in the Old Town area were catered for tourists with questionable quality, we decided to have lunch at Zapiecek, a chain that serves traditional Polish dishes with waitresses in ridiculous outfits. He watched a pierogi blind-tasting video on Youtube that reported this chain does the best dumpling. We chose a selection from the list with sour cream topping, a potato pancake and some sour rye soup. Food was quite good, though Polish dumpling will never be as good as Chinese ones:) I thought the potato pancake and soup were delicious.

We wandered along the main strip of Old Town and Nowy Swiat. Apparently Lody Prawdziwe serves the best ice cream in town. That’s the thing - best ice cream in Poland may still just be 'alright' ice cream by Italian gelato standard. It was alright. 

Having spent enough time rubbing shoulders with tourists, we decided to cross the river to the East side of the city. The Soho Factory is an trendy industry park for creative businesses. Sadly most museums close on Tuesdays in the city, so we had to miss out on Museum of Neon Lights. Instead we just wandered around the park and checked out a few furniture shops.
 Bars are abundant in town centre; alcohol is cheap. At £1 a shot or half-pint or small glass of wine, we sampled their extensive offerings and nibbled on their bar snacks – steak tartare(!) , pierogi, spicy sausage, all for £2. That’s the thing, even at that price point, food was still pretty good. It’s like Weatherspoon in London, but cheaper and better.

The following morning we made our way across town to catch the 8am Polskibus to Krakow (c.£4 pp; 5 hours).

We were dropped off at the main bus terminal, just next to the train station. Seeing the apartment wasn’t ready for check in, we walked over to the Jewish Quarter. At first glance, this area is a bit run down, a bit  grotty, a bit messy. Upon a closer look, it was packed with trendy cafes and stylish bars, hidden behind unassuming doors. We went to their market near plac Nowy, a small square with food stalls selling the much-loved local zapiekanka, which is an open-face baguette topped with mushroom, cheese and ketchup. It was a very popular lunch spot with tourists and locals. We chose Endizor coz it had the longest queue; I had a spinach one and he went for chicken with crispy onion. It was tasty, the hot crusty bread was super soft inside, delicious with melted gooey cheese, not dissimilar to pizza. Mine was a bit plain and got quite boring half way through though, he made a better choice.

After checking in, we rested before joining the 4pm freewalking tour. Our tour guide was excellent, very engaging and entertaining with interesting facts about the city. She didn’t spend as time slating Warsaw as the guy in Warsaw did to Krakow. Probably because there were more interesting things to tell us about the old town area. We started at St. Florian’s Gate and learnt the significance of the McDonalds that symbolises the end of Communism for the Polish, made our way to the huge market square to watch the trumpet player perform his hourly duty above St. Mary’s, before taking a break in the university courtyard. Our guide Anya told us great stories of myths and urban legends.

Then we ventured south to where the Pope stayed during his visit, followed by the Wawel Royal Castle and Cathedral, where we finished the tour and watched sunset.

 For dinner we went on a little quest to find the Skwer Judah food truck park. Andrus serving maczanka (pulled pork sandwich) was stunning, Pan Kumpir was less exciting with their jacket potatoes, but satisfying nonetheless. For dessert, we had a Chimney Cake stuffed with orea ice cream, topped with whipped cream to push our calorie count way over the edge – it was amazing. 


The street food culture in Krakow was awesome. There was a Singer Bar near the market that had a Singer sewing machine and candle on every table. It was quite a cool little bar with locals dancing away… until my hair was caught by the candle…eek.

The following day we went to Auschwitz Concentration Camp museum. There were multiple buses that go to Oswiecim every hour; we took the big Lajkonik bus (14zl, 90mins). Entrance is only free before 10am or after 3pm, when visitors could enter and visit the Auschwitz site without a tour guide. After 10am, visitors must join a tour group (45zl). We got there around 9:30am and enjoyed browsing at our own pace.

The Auschwitz site looked so ordinary at first. It wasn’t until we crossed the barbed fence and started entering the buildings before its sombreness struck me. I honestly struggled with the experience. It was mostly psychological, but the smell inside the buildings, the mountain of hair, the pile of shoes and the thousands of photos that lined the walls – I felt sick.

There was a free shuttlebus that transported visitors to Birkenau camp, which was much bigger than Auschwitz. We walked along the railway tracks that brought in prisoners, endless rows of barracks, gas chambers and ponds where the ashes were dumped.

We returned to Krakow by the same bus, and had a late lunch at Charlotte’s, a French bakery-café. Meh. He decided he wanted to see the Schindler’s Factory and Mocak art museum. It closes at 7pm so we had about 90mins to do both. *The factory does not exist anymore – it’s only a museum called Schindler’s Factory nowadays* It was yet another war-related museum, as if the visit to the concentration camp wasn’t traumatic enough… I was WWII-ed out.

After a couple of drinks and nibbles, we looked for the hot dog truck that setup shop on the roadside with an open fire after 8pm. There was a short queue of leather-clad bikers, waiting for their crispy skin sausage… like a secret foodie cult… Apparently the owners have been grilling dogs at the same spot for 17 years.



On the final day we decided to get away from war-related sights and headed to Wieliczka Salt Mine. We started the day with breakfast at the cool Jajownia for some scrambled eggs.

It was a short 30min bus ride on local bus, just opposite the Galleria shopping mall. This was by far the most expensive attraction with a steep 89zl entrance fee that comes with a mandatory guide. The tour started with a 378 steps descend to 64m below ground and was lead through a series of ridiculous sculptures. It was really quite disappointing until we reached the cathedral – which was the largest underground church in the world.


After the 90-min tour, we were given the option to see the museum underground with another guide, or head out. We went around the various facilities of the salt mine, including a 4D cinema and a dining hall, before joining a 5-people tour of the museum. So glad we did, this was so much better than the first one. 

We couldn’t grasp the size and scale of the mine until we saw this diagram, the red showing the few kilometres that our tours covered. Oh, it was really quite cold down under, around 16 degrees when it was 28 above, make sure you bring a coat.


After grabbing a hearty kebab, we made our way back to Krakow. We had some time to spare so we quickly checked out the modern Galleria shopping mall, before jumping on the train to the airport (8zl, 20mins).

Despite the heaviness of the war exhibitions, the two Polish cities were pack with fun and variety of things to do. There was a good mix of old and new, and food was astonishingly delicious - there’s way more on offer than the traditional pierogi and  potato cakes. I’d love to come back some day to see smaller scenic cities and appreciate modern Poland.


How I’d missed Europe. So happy to be coming home with you.

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