Monday, 5 June 2017

Ellory - a World of its Own

The dining room went for the extreme minimalistic look; stripped back with low-hanging trendy light bulbs, concrete floor and simple polished wooden furniture. Almost like a pop-up establishment. The atmosphere warmed up as the dining room began to fill, and the soft murmurs began to echo from the high ceiling.

The a la carte menu is small, so we skipped the tasting menu option and cherry-picked the items of interest.

Lamb sweetbreads, courgette and horseradish 
I love sweetbreads. The kitchen did an excellent job with these soft doughy morsels with slightly charred edges, oozing distinctive offal flavours. The beautifully roasted bites were paired with a strong savoury gravy, infused with a faint trace of horseradish to offset the pungent aroma of sweetbreads. The succulent courgette carried a slight crunch, its clean juices helped to lift the strong flavours. It was quite a unique dish.

Boudin noir, Raf tomato, parsley and shallot
It's a unusual choice, he doesn't normally go for a second offal dish - too adventurous. But it was a small menu, and it turned out to be a very good choice. 

The thick disc of black pudding was surprisingly light, moistened by the thin sauce and nicely contrasted by the shallots. It had a power tone but nothing offensive, and the acidity from the small wedge of tomato relieved the metallic taste in the blood. It was interestingly different, a good kind of different.

Octopus, sorrel and bone marrow
The thick octopus tentacle was not quite perfect; slightly overcooked and the rubbery texture was coming through. The centre had lost its creamy juiciness and the mild bitterness from the charring was the only flavour left. It had gone over. The  unconventional pairing of bone marrow didn't pay off either. Without the beefy melted grease, the globules of marrow lost its magic and we're limp on the plate. Not one of the better dishes, but the worst is yet to come.

Cod, watercress and chestnut mushroom
A very dainty dish for sharing. At £22 I was tempted to ask for the other half of the dish. The fish was excellent, marginally undercooked to retain its silky smoothness. The skin could have been crispier, and there could have been a thicker layer of fish oil essence. The mushroom fragrance was subtle, more for substance than flavour.

Bavette, beetroot, ricotta and anchovy
He decided he was still hungry after the last dish so we added an order of the steak. And how we wished we didn't. The two thick strips of beef were served medium rare, exposing its coarse ruby grains. It was difficult to cut against the grain to avoid the sinewy textured as we had to slice lengthways, but even then the steak was tough and chewy, interweaved with far too much tendon. The meat was lacking flavour, as if it had been pumped with water to drain its natural goodness. The jus was flat, overseasoned and flimsy, but the worst was the awkward pairing of anchovy with ricotta that simply didn't belong. I'm afraid this eccentricity was a tad stretched.

Soft chocolate, yoghurt and Griottines
It was okay; uninspiring yet unoffensive. The kirsch-soaked cherries turned out to be the highlights and I don't even like cherries.

When we were paying, we fedback to our server that the bavette was the weakest of the dishes and asked why it was sliced in such manner. He tried to explain bavette is a very tough cut and it required very precise cooking; slicing it any other way was apparently not possible. Well... I wasn't convinced. Not that it mattered.

Was the Ellory a Michelin star experience? Not sure. Perhaps on the innovative front and the experimental aspirations, but the results are hit-and-miss. Compared to other one-star establishments, I felt this was underwhelming. Of course we could have visited on an off-night, or we missed their signature dishes, but from what we have tried, we felt there is more mileage to cover.

Ellory
Netil House
1 Westgate Street
London
E1 3RL
Tel: +44 203 095 9455

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Monday, 29 May 2017

Pintxos Bars in San Sebastián

We had one afternoon to check out the pintxos bars in the city, and he did the research to make sure we hit the best bars. It was tough to narrow down to 3 places and only order a couple of dishes from each.

We were quite disciplined to only order 2 or 3 pintxos from each joint. Though it was so tempting to order more.

La Cuchara de San Telmo
Oreja de Cerdo Prensada Crujiente Melosa. Hummus de Garbanso - Honeyed pressed Pigs Ears 
This was one of my favourite dishes of the trip. The sheets of cartilage were slow-cooked to a melty gelatinous texture that dissolved in mouth that leaves a trail of fragrant nutty essence. The ears were sweet and savoury from the light drizzle of honey, soft with a bit of chew and a bit of bite, playfully delicious.

Cochina de Salamanca Asado con Keeler y Deshuesada - Roasted Boneless Suckling Pig with Local Beer
The sucking pig was soft and juicy, sprinkled with an array of aromatics including citrus peels to keep a refreshing note.

Foie-gras salteado con Compota de Manzara, sal gris y caramelo de sidra - sautéed foie gras with apple compote, grey salt and cider caramel
The generous slab of foie gras was beautifully seared to a crispy top, simply seasoned with flecks of sea salt, sat atop of a bed of apple purée, sweet and tangy to life the grease from indulgent foie gras. 

Borda Biretti
This pintxos bar was just as casual, with a good mix of locals and tourists. Like La Cuchara, we placed our orders at the counter. Instead of yelling out names when the food is ready, we were just signalled by the lady behind the counter.

Arroz "Bomba"
This was quite good. The rice was cooked with bits of squid and a shellfish stock, oozing seafood goodness. 

Risotto de "Puntalete"
The risotto was very cheesy, al-dente and all. Just not very exciting.

"Kebab" de Costilla de Cerdo
This was arguably the least enjoyable pintxos. The thinner part of the rib was dry and sinewy, there was only one bite mingled with softened grease that was good. A bit annoyed we wasted space in our stomachs.

Bar Zeruka
La Honguera de Bacalao - Smoked Cod Bonfire
This was incredibly delicious. The slithery smoked cod was served with a cube of smoking charcoal, and a small tube of herb dressing. The fillet had a texture similar to sashimi, glistening with a layer of fragrant fish oils, paired with the crunchy caramelised onions on a slice of baguette that had soaked up the sweetness. Crazily good.

Vieira a la plancha - Grilled Scallop
There were two jumbo scallops with their roe intact, simply grilled to perfection to retain its creaminess. 

La Viña - Cheesecake
We were recommended to have only cheesecake here. One portion came with two slices - dense, rich and velvety with a slightly burnt top - gorgeous.

The food was amazing, and we were spoilt for choices. I was still thinking how we could cram another pigs ears dish into our schedule when we were walking to Mirador de Ulia for lunch our flight...

Monday, 22 May 2017

Mirador de Ulia, San Sebastian

To make the most of our weekend trip in San Sebastián, we booked lunch at the 1-star Mirador de Ulia. It would be way too indulgent to have two 3-star meals back-to-back, and Mugaritz was booked out.

We decided to work up an appetite by walking up to the hillside restaurant; including the wandering around town, it was a good 1.5hr walk. We felt slightly underdressed when we were shown to the table by the window in the conservatory. Thankfully other diners were more casual than smart too, except for a group of Asian ladies that wore bridesmaid-style dresses.

We were offered a lemon and brandy welcome drink, which was so refreshing after walking in the heat. We took a long time deciding between the tasting menu and a la carte. The oyster with champagne was only available on the tasting, and it had the lobster and tuna belly that I wanted, but I couldn't care for the asparagus and duck; I really wanted to try the cod cheeks too. Ended up a la carte with a bottle of vintage cava.


The amuse bouche selection was very intriguing; we started with the soft mini bun stuffed with chopped chorizo served with the mushroom velouté, then the pressed chicken wing and crispy ball with explosive runny purée. The puffed chicken feet cracker lined with a layer of pâté was one of my favourites, as was the slightly sweet olive with a smear of anchovy.

Norway lobster laced in fresh herbs emulsion, Iberian nuances and yuzu pearls
The lobster pile was muscular and succulent with its sweet oceanic juice, perfectly cooked to retain a marginally creamy centre enveloped by bouncy lobster meat. The delicate fragrance from yuzu pearls highlighted the natural essence in the lobster, simply seasoned with gentle herb foam. It was immensely satisfying.

Kokotxas - hake kokotxas, black garlic, bread soufflé, txakolí pearls
I love cod cheeks, it's the softest part of the fish, contrasted with some toasted fish skin brittles. The txakolí (local fizzy wine) jelly was served at the table and I can't tell you what it tasted like. Making it into a jelly took out all the gas and so it was just cubes of jelly with a mild alcoholic aftertaste. The fish morsels were lightly torched to leave the skin crispy with slight charring, topped with a puffed cracker filled with creamed-garlic. Although the cheeks were very enjoyable, I felt this dish was lacking some sauce.

Merluza - hake with kokotxas
Its hard to be impressed by a hake fillet after the one we had in Akelare the night before. Though perfectly cooked and deliciously silky, it just didn't have that je-sais-quoi. Very good, not extraordinary.

Ventresca de Atún - Tuna Belly with mojo of their own skin
I was so excited to see this on the menu, and it certainly didn't disappoint. The slithers of tuna belly were flash-seared on the outside so that the centre was still raw but the glorious fish oils were melting. The tuna belly was at its optimal state. Unlike the clean-tasting o-toro sashimi, the searing brings out the fishy flavours, which was quickly washed away as the slice of fish melted in mouth, releasing its mind-blowing fish oils. The dried cherry tomatoes scattered on the plate are worth mentioning; the sugars concentrated in a tiny pocket with a chewy texture. No doubt one of the best dishes on this trip.

Pichón guidado y a la brasa - pigeon stewed with their own interior and pumpkin
The pigeon has been spread over the plate, in an artistic way. The meat carried powerful flavours, as well as the mild metallic tone from the game meat, it had an earthy tinge from the gizzard jus, nicely balanced by the sweet pumpkin wedges. My favourite was the whipped liver parfait on the light airy crisp; there were all kinds of textures on the plate. Delicious.

Basil sorbet with snow

Chocolates en Texturas - textures of chocolate and raspberry ice cream
Popping candy is the best!

Esferas - crispy spheres, cream acidulated with raspberry and vanilla ice cream
We preferred this one, the crispy shells were buttery, bursted with delicious cream in mouth.



We thought we would probably be unfair to Mirador de Ulia having had our 3-star dinner at Akelare the night before; inevitably the bar was set a tad higher than usual. That said we thoroughly enjoyed our lunch at Mirador de Ulia. The food was meticulously prepared and showcased a vast range of techniques. Each dish was designed to bring out the flavours of the ingredients, showing off the quality of the produce. Undoubted one star quality. And of course, the panoramic view over the beach and the city was quite extraordinary. 

Mirador de Ulia
Ulia Pasealekua 193 
20013 Donostia 
Gipuzkoa
Spain
Tel: +34 943 27 27 07

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Sunday, 14 May 2017

Akelare Pedro Subijana, San Sebastian ***


As we found out our new house has yet again been delayed, we decided a weekend trip to San Sebastian was necessary to cheer ourselves up.

Out of the star restaurants in the region, Arzak is best known, perhaps because it features on both the worlds best list and on the Michelin guide. Unfortunately we only decided on this trip end of March, so most of the places were booked out for Saturday dinner, except for Akelare. So Akelare it is.

The restaurant is little out of the main town centre, about 20mins on Bus 16 of 15mins by taxi. The grand entrance was elegant and modern, I think they are developing a hotel on site. Upon entering the dining room, we were greeted with a panoramic view of the sunset over the sea. Stunning. The dining room was quite classic with polished wooden panels and plenty of natural light. The ambience grew more intimate and cosy as night fell.

There were 3 tasting menus, Aranori, Bekarki, and Akelare's Classic. The first two were more experimental while the classics feature the all-time favourites from the establishment. We were given the option to pick from any of the three for the meat main course.

We felt at least one of us was obliged to pick the classics menu, which sounded like it featured all the signature dishes. Looking around us, I think at least 70% of the dining thought the same. But the other two menus simply looked much more exciting...  we took a punt and went for Aranori and Bekarki. This is going to be a long post.

We started with an array of amuse bouche: 'bloody mary'; 'diabolic butter' that was a sheet of cheese-infused butter served with colourful bruschetta and potato snacks; black pudding cookies. The best was no doubt the 'olives'; the green one was filled with chorizo and liver cream, and the flavours were unforgettable as it was smeared on tongue. The black one was filled with anchovy cream, powerful and punchy. 



Prawns and Green Beans cooked in 'Oruro' Flame and sea roes 
I have to say he picked the better tasting menu of the three. His first course was cooked in front of us; the maitre'd carefully placed the prawn into the pot and set the wine spirit on fire while holding the hid slightly above the burning flame:


The results were incredible, pink translucent prawns that were just-cooked, bouncy, crunchy and immensely succulent, oozing smoky fragrance from the open flame, served on a bed of popping roe. The most mind-blowing part though, was sucking the head of the prawn - flavoursome and creamy, bursting with shellfish goodness - fricking delicious.

The Leaves under the Rain
My first course was not as light as it seems, among the various leaves, the two big ones at the bottom were actually cold foie gras! So cleverly disguised. Beautifully dressed with the aromatic-infused dews.

Chickpeas and Violet Potato, not Conventional at all
The vegetarian course was a mixture of chickpeas and potato purée, velvety smooth and accompanied with a deep savoury jus.

Green Broth Infusion, Scampi and Smoked Monkfish

Presentation was stunning; it arrived with a little infusion bag made of obulato, holding monkfish crisp, prawn powder and herbs, the server then poured a clear broth that melted the bag, unleashing all the flavours. The thin slices of smoked monkfish lining the plate were delicate and the smokiness worked well with the clean oceanic broth; the scampi was sweet, meaty and full of bounce. Gorgeous.

Souffléd kokotxa, white Garlic Pil-Pil 
Things went up a gear. The fish cheeks were puffed to an airy crisp with seaweed tempura, smeared with A layer of garlic purée. Like a breath of salty sea.

Very thin and light Beef Tartar, new potato soufflé and Aromatic Herb Bread
The bed of molecular beef tartar was like ice cream - so fine and so soft the tartar flavours smeared across my tongue; most interesting texture. The accompaniments were mostly brittle breads and the ultra thin potato crisp, which I'm not mad about. If I may, perhaps I would find it even more enjoyable with some form of yolk to moisten the crackers on the side.

Hake in Seaweed steam. Plankton and Oyster Leaf
He said this was the most delicious thing he has eaten. The small bloc of fish was infused with seaweed fragrance, served on a bed of beautiful plankton pearls, which tastes like.. the sea; it's elegant and subtle that leaves a long finish on the taste buds, like concentrated sashimi. The fillet was intricately steamed to ultimate silkiness, and melted on tongue to release the lasting trail of oceanic goodness. Truly divine.

Sea bass "umami"
By contrast my sea bass was less exciting. The umami broth was fairly flat, and the texture of the fish was slightly firmer and leaner. Despite the small cube of shiso-mixed sashimi mince served on the side, this was simply up against serious competition next to his hake course.

Squid as a Risotto, Butter Flower
Another bomb. The rose-shaped butter arrived on the side and we were instructed to tip it into the black pool of squid risotto, which was playful and springy. The flavours were stunning; savoury butter and the squid ink were magical together, bringing to life the tiny diced squid. It was tantalising.

"Desalted" Cod Box with Shavings
The cod arrived in a wooden box, and our server explained the fish had been crystallised. I'm guessing the process makes it softer by forming oil crystals? Not sure. The gelatinous jus was very interesting; it was tomato water, not dissimilar to diluted ketchup, except it was the natural sweetness from tomato essence and much more refined. The edible shavings were dried thin pasta, adding some crunch to the mix.

Grilled Iberic "Presa" with Pepper Seeds and Garlic in three different versions
Roasted 5J pork, served slightly pink in the middle, and lacquered with red pepper juice. The capsicum sweetness and mild piquant kick worked well with the meat. The highlight was actually the three types of garlic, especially the one that was coated with charcoal dust; it was mushy but super concentrated, like it had packed a whole bulb of garlic in that little clove. The kitchen must have done something ingenious.

Roasted Suckling Pig, "Bone" and Iberian Emulsion
To get a crispy and juicy texture, the baby pig is cooked in Iberian broth and finished in the oven. The 'bone' was made with a sugar coat with porky essence in the middle. And we were told to start with the baby pig, then a bite of the bone. Exemplary suckling pig with a little twist.

Melting Cupcake
The cake was made with yoghurt foam, filled with coffee and chestnut as well as some grapefruit. Didn't work for us, plasticky cake and grapefruit coffee was as odd as it sounds. We decided the pre-dessert is also a bit too whacky.

Gin & Tonic on a Plate
Mine was no better. An authentic gin & tonic in jelly form is no more tasty than the drink. The combination was sour from the juniper sauce and bitter from the alcohol. Meh.

A Different Apple Tarte
The was amazing. The Akelare-branded wrapper was edible and tasted like apple; we unveiled the crazily buttery and crumbly pastry hidden with fluffy apple cream. It was so much better than the traditional ones.

"Xaxu" and Coconut Iced Mousse
Tolosa traditional little cake with the permission of Gorrotxategui pastry chef. The ball was made of egg and almond with a runny custardy centre, and the coconut icebergs on the sides were like eating coconut air. Something different. A good different. 

Whoa. It was past mid-night by the time we got the bill and requested a taxi. The pace of dinner was surprising swift; each course followed within a few minutes of each other. Perhaps we were particularly slow eaters, but it didn't feel like we had to wait around much. Not to the point that we were rushed though, we quite liked it. 

The dining experience was truly exceptional and sophisticated. The courses were designed to maximise our senses; just as we thought we knew what squid tasted like, chef showed us a new dimension to it. 


A colleague of his had both Arzak and Akelare in one trip, said Arzak was even better. That might be true, but we don't know which menu he had. This is precisely why we didn't want to cram Arzak or Mugaritz for Sunday lunch; putting one right next to another is likely to mar at least one of them. So we can say now, we loved Akelare; and we are looking forward to Arzak in a few months time.

Padre Orkolaga, 
56 Igeldo
20008 San Sebastian
Donastia
Tel: +34 943 311209

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